Younger Looking Skin NOW

Turn Back the Clock with Epidermal Growth Factors

Recovery has typically been a drawback of professional resurfacing treatments. A deal breaker for some, the thought of spending days—sometimes weeks—in a vulnerable post-operative state has chased away more than a few candidates. If only there were some way to accelerate the process—to bridge the gap between being a “before” and an “after.”

Enter epidermal growth factors. Naturally occurring polypeptides (small proteins), epidermal growth factors, or EGF, stimulate significant cellular growth and proliferation. By switching on fibroblasts, EGF stimulates collagen production, helping to dramatically improve skin density and elasticity. When applied to treated skin, the prolific proteins help repair cellular damage, encouraging the appearance of fresh, healthy cells. Originally used to enhance wound healing, EGF is a relatively new cosmeceutical phenomenon, having made its skin care debut only within the past two decades. Its discovery won researcher Dr. Stanley Cohen and his collaborators a Nobel Prize in 1986, sparking a wave of interest and enthusiasm over potential applications. A patent for cosmetic use followed three years later.

EGF works by binding to specific epidermal growth factor receptors (EGFR) on a cell’s surface, where it initiates cellular DNA replication and, consequently, cell division and proliferation. Produced naturally by the body, EGF can also be synthesized from a variety of natural sources, including plant extracts and yeast. Because skin cells naturally recognize EGF, their interaction with the ingredient is flawless.

According to Shan Albert, a lab consultant for CosMedix, “EGF applied to the skin not only increases mitosis (cell division), but also increases the synthesis of proteins, the number of fibroblasts and the accumulation of collagen”—critical factors often compromised by skin injury and aging.

Because all resurfacing treatments (i.e. peels, laser rejuvenation, microdermabrasions) damage the skin to some degree to achieve results, such methods have always assumed a certain amount of post-procedure downtime—when freshly exposed cells are most sensitive and highly vulnerable to inflammation and external irritation.

Depending on the type and intensity of the application, coupled with individual factors like skin type and/or condition, post-treatment recovery time can vary from mere days to weeks.

EGF helps expedite the process by accelerating the rate of cell production and subsequent migration to recently exposed areas. “It is important to incorporate EGF products, like CosMedix’s Radiance serum, into any process such as peeling or exfoliation,” Albert explains, “because directly stimulating the more rapid release of skin cells (resurfacing) without directly stimulating the more rapid replacement of these cells will cause immune stress.” By applying EGF products to resurfaced skin, the window of new cell vulnerability—and post-procedure recovery time as a whole—is thus abbreviated.

In addition to its recovery function, EGF is a key player in the fight against premature aging. “While we have EGF in our skin, our natural supply diminishes with age and exposure to ultraviolet light,” says Albert. As a result, cell division and migration slows significantly. Unable to refresh itself at a healthy, youthful rate, the skin accumulates dead surface cells and starts to show visible signs of aging—most notably dullness, roughness and prolonged healing time. By supplementing this deficit topically, a more youthful rate of renewal can once again be enjoyed.

Combined with the removal of built-up, dead surface cells, the reintroduction of EGF is a major step in turning back the clock on aging. By accelerating post-treatment recovery and re-energizing waning cellular processes, we can blaze the way to a more beautiful “after.”