Behind the Mask of Melasma

Bring Harmony to Hyperpigmented Skin

Often called the “mask of pregnancy,” Melasma affects an estimated five to six million American women. Although the precise cause is unknown, melasma—also known as chloasma—in pregnant women is a relatively common skin condition characterized by patchy, tan to gray-brown facial discolorations. While by no means life threatening, it is a condition that can nonetheless carry a heavy emotional burden in a culture that prizes clear skin.

Melasma occurs when the skin is prompted to produce more melanin, or pigment, than normal. As a result, dark, irregular patches form, notably on the forehead, cheeks, upper lip and/or chin. The condition can last anywhere from several months to a lifetime if untreated. The almost exclusively female condition (women make up about 90% of the cases) is estimated to affect 50-70% of pregnant women in the U.S.—usually in the second to third trimester. Melasma is more prevalent among those of Hispanic, Asian, Middle Eastern and African origin, and those taking oral and topical contraceptives.

According to melasma expert Lori Nugent of Derm Effects in Boise, ID, while genes may have a hand in determining who is more prone to develop melasma, the likely culprit is a combination of facial heat retention, UV exposure and hormonal fluctuation. “Women with elevated estrogen levels tend to develop increased skin pigmentation,” says Nugent. “Activity of melanin [also] increases [with] UVB light or heat.”

In many cases, the telltale signs of melasma lessen or vanish following childbirth or cessation of birth control as hormones stabilize. However, even in these instances, it can take months—even years—for the skin to regain uniformity. Fortunately, advances in professional skin care have made treatment of this condition both effective and practical.

Target Pigment Overproduction

The first step in combating melasma is curbing the activity of the hyperactive melanocytes, pigment-producing cells in the skin. Topical skin brighteners that inhibit the melanin-stimulating enzyme tyrosinase can effectively limit pigment overproduction and keep the condition from worsening.

When considering a skin brightener, pay close attention to the key brightening agent. Research recently revealed that the industry’s most popular brightener, hydroquinone, may cause irritation, permanently stain the skin, a condition known as onchronosis, and pose a cancer risk in high doses. As an alternative, many skin care professionals now recommend natural brightening agents such as azelaic acid, licorice and mulberry. “Unlike hydroquinone, azelaic acid seems to act on only hyperactive melanocytes and does not lighten normally functioning melanocytes,” Nugent explains.

“Lift” Away Discoloration

With melanin production under control, it is time to draw the pigmented areas up and out. Peels and resurfacing treatments can effectively speed up melasma’s fading by accelerating cell turnover, “pushing” affected skin cells to the surface where they are eventually shed. However, since even the slightest irritation can worsen hyperpigmented skin, it is important to look for treatments that are non-traumatic.

Chirally correct products reduce the risk of trauma dramatically. Filtered in their most elemental form to select only skin-beneficial molecules, chirally correct ingredients eliminate the potential for contact irritation common in less refined ingredients.

Stay Sun Safe

Hyperpigmented skin conditions like melasma are extremely sun-sensitive and easily exacerbated by UV exposure, making proper sun protection essential for treatment.

Because melasma affects varying levels of the skin, the American Academy of Dermatology stresses the importance of broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection and recommends the use of sun-blocking products with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide for maximum defense.

When it comes to treating the condition, for Nugent, the best advice is patience. “It always takes time,” she says. “Just don’t give up.” Fortunately, with today’s advanced pigment treatments, beautiful, even tone is just skin-deep.

Treatment Zone

Effective Solutions for Skin Tone Restoration

Brighten Pigmented Areas

Brighten Pigmented Areas
Skin brighteners with selective tyrosinase inhibitors can put the brakes on hyperactive melanocytes without affecting normal skin cells, keeping pigment production in check. Lightning applies a blend of such inhibitors—chirally corrected for maximum potency—to problem areas to begin the fading process.

Restore Original Skin Tone
With pigment production under control, resurfacing can begin to speed fading of pigmented areas and return the skin to its original tone. A non-traumatic, medium-depth peel, Timeless Peel accelerates cell turnover and renewal to “lift” away discolorations over time.

Protect Treated Skin
Harmful UV rays can easily exacerbate melasma and undo any progress made in treatment. Therefore, broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection is a must. Utilizing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, Serious Protection provides maximum UV defense to keep skin safe and treatment on track.