Damage Control

Putting Photodamaged Skin on the Road to Recovery

For most of us, it starts small: a harmless sunburn here, a trip to the tanning bed there, and then suddenly—after years of compounded sun exposure—the damage is done. Now what?

Photodamage, commonly known as sun damage, occurs when the skin is overwhelmed by ultraviolet (UV) rays, resulting in scar tissue buildup and dermal thinning. The changes that the body incurs, however, are not evident on the skin’s surface until years later. As skin ages, visible effects of photodamage appear as fine lines, wrinkles and age spots.

Thanks to today’s advanced clinical skin care, treatments for photodamage cover a wide range of professional products and procedures. But Constance Campion, a medical aesthetic practitioner at Britain’s foremost plastic surgery practices who treats photodamage in patients as young as 16, believes that education is the first step in treating damaged skin. During patient consultations at London’s Plastic Surgery Associates UK, Campion employs a tell-tale Wood’s lamp—a diagnostic tool, similar to a black light, by which UV light is shone onto the skin to detect abnormalities—to reveal signs of photoaging.

With 17 years of experience, Campion declares, “That lamp never lies. Once the patient can see for themselves the damage that lurks beneath, they begin to listen to our advice. Once they understand, the process is easy.”

Indeed, treating photodamage is a process that requires a long-term management program including lifestyle changes, stress reduction and improved nutrition. In conjunction with patient education, Campion prescribes a chirally correct CosMedix skin care regimen designed to rebuild, support and protect the skin.

Get Back to Basics

According to Campion, the purified, anti-inflammatory ingredients produced by chiral technology are the chief benefit of CosMedix products. “Chiral ingredients such as tyrosinase inhibitors, antioxidants, pepoxides…and the amazing properties of the retinoid in AGP Complex are just so effective for driving results. Utilizing a complete CosMedix program is key,” she explains.

Naturally, that program begins with rebuilding the skin. Only after the layers of dead skin are removed can fresh, new skin cells thrive. But because photodamage-afflicted skin is highly sensitive, promoting healthy change is crucial. CosMedix’s non-traumatic peels are designed to gently stimulate fibroblasts—skin-rejuvenating collagen and elastin fibers—without the irritation and excessive peeling of traditional chemical peel treatments.

Show Your Support

The skin is already under attack from inflammation caused by dietary and mental stress. Damaged skin, to boot, is even more susceptible to free radical assaults. Hence, photodamage treatment requires a specialized support system.

Serums, masks and cleansers containing reparative ingredients like vitamin C, antioxidants, enzymes, peptides and growth factors provide indirect support to the skin by helping to increase cellular turnover, inhibit melanin production and reduce inflammation. Campion also emphasizes the critical role of nutritional skin care supplements, such as the CosMedix SKINutrition line, which aid in boosting immunity and minimizing oxidative damage to improve skin tone and texture from within. “CosMedix’s Balance and Restore build up nutrients in the skin by increasing the amount of essential fatty acids and amino acids in the body, a highly important factor that many practitioners do not fully appreciate.”

Stay Sun-Safe

Neglecting to shield sun-sensitive skin from harmful UV rays can easily exacerbate photodamage and counteract any progress made with resurfacing and restorative products. To ensure enduring results, a broad spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen should be applied daily for maximum defense.

Campion acknowledges that UV rays have a silver lining, pointing out that the sun is essential for vitamin D synthesis and noting that 30 minutes of sunlight a day promotes ovarian and breast tissue health in women. “However,” she stresses, “we need to understand not only how to use a good sun block, but how to utilize an active skin health restoration process to nourish and protect the skin.”